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Turk

Robot feet are unique. They can be wheels, blocks, posts, points, etc.

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Here’s a preview of crochet instructions from my “Turk” the robot Amigurumi pattern describing how to make suction cup feet.

SUCTION CUP –  use “D” 3.25 mm hook/3yds. worsted weight yarn

R1: make adjustable loop, sc6 in loop, remember to mark the 1st sc. (6sts)

R2: *(inc.1 in each stitch around)*6x’s, remember to mark 1st st. (12sts)

R3: *(sc1, inc.1)* 6x’s, remember to mark 1st stitch. (18sts)

R4: *(sc2, inc.1)* 6x’s, remember to mark 1st stitch. (24sts)

R5: sc24, remember to mark 1st stitch. (24sts) Bind off by sl st to next stitch, leaving 12” tail to use to sew to bottom circles. Make two.

BOTTOM CIRCLES – use “D” 3.25 mm hook/3yds. worsted weight yarn

R1: make an adjustable loop, sc6 in loop, remember to mark the 1st sc. (6sts)

R2: inc.1 in each stitch around, remember to mark 1st stitch. (12sts)

R3: *(sc1, inc.1)*6x’s, remember to mark 1st stitch. (18sts)

R4: *(sc2, inc.1)*6x’s, remember to mark 1st stitch. (24sts)

Bind off. Make two. Sew to bottom of suction cups, stuff lightly before completely closing.

SUCTION CUP TOPPER – use “D” 3.25 mm hook/2yds. worsted weight yarn of a contrasting color.

R1: make adjustable loop, ch3, mark the 1st ch from hook, dc5 in loop. (6dc)

R2; sc to marked ch, remember to mark this sc as 1st stitch, sc around (6sts)

Bind off by slip stitching to next st, leave a 6″ tail for sewing to top of suction cup. Make two.

©2008 Judy Sakaguchi

You can use this information to create your own copyrighted amigurumi creations but please do not sell, give away or use for teaching a class copies of this instruction.

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BONUS TIP:

The primary shape of “Turk”  is a squarish cushion form. There is a “trick”  to making a cornered box shape.

View my “you tube” crochet seams for cushions video to see the trick. Enter “judy0goofygals” in the search. The full pattern can be purchased in my Etsy shop at www.goofgals.etsy.com.

Katie Did

 

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While most Amigurumi is made using smooth yarns. The addition of various novelty yarns of different fiber content and texture can add interesting touches.

Here’ a preview of crochet instructions from my “Katie Did” Amigurumi pattern describing how to make fuzzy-ended antennas and mercerized cotton wings. For the best stitch definition when crocheting anything use mercerized cotton yarn. I recommend “Tahki Stacy Charles Cotton Classic” yarn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Antennas – use “D” 3.25 hook / 3 yd. of worsted or DK weight yarn / 1.5 yds fuzzy novelty yarn.

Chain 3, sc to 1st ch, sc around in a spiral counting each stitch as you make them, make 12 sc’s total. TIP: To find the next stitch to work, count stitches back from the hook, this will also confirm the placement.

Attach some decorative novelty yarn and sc6 total. Bind off, weave in yarn tail. Make two.

 

Katie Did - wings

Katie Did - wings

Wings – use “D” 3.25mm hook / 11yds. of DK weight mercerized cotton yarn.

R1: make an adjustable loop, ch 2, dc1 in loop and mark ch next to hook, make 11 more dc’s in loop. (12sts)

R2: sl st to marked st of previous R, ch3 and mark TBL the 2nd ch from hook (counts as 1hdc and 1 chain), *(1hdc, ch1)* 10 more x’s (24sts)

R3: sl st to marked st, ch1 mark it, inc.1 in the next st, *(sc1, inc1)* 11x’s (36sts)

Sl st  to next stitch, bind off, leaving a 6 inch tail. Make two.

Weave in the start yarn tails. Pinch one of the circles together at bind off point with the good side facing inside and sew about 3/4” together, do this to the other circle.

 

©2008 Judy Sakaguchi

You can use this information to create your own copyrighted amigurumi creations but please do not sell, give away or use for teaching a class copies of this instruction. 

 

 

Bob Super Hero

Bob wears a cape which is always color coordinated to his beret hat.

Bob Super Hero-Hello

Bob Super Hero-Hello

 

 

Here’s a preview of crochet instructions from my “Bob Super Hero” Amigurumi pattern describing how to turn a flat leaf motif into a super hero cape.

In my patterns, I  highly recommend using  7/8″ long safety pin type plastic markers made by Clover, I have only seen them in orange and green. They won’t fall out of the work, they’re sturdy and they won’t snag the yarn. 

When you are making your own capes, experiment with varying sizes of hooks and types of yarn. It all depends on what size and how drapey or stiff you may want your cape to be.

 

 

 

 

 

CAPE – use size”E” 3.50 mm hook/10yds. worsted weight yarn/6 markers

Back view - cape

Back view - cape

 

 

R1: ch16, sc in 2nd chain from the hook, sc across the chain, when you get to the last chain do 3 sc’s in this chain (marking the middle stitch of this 3sc group), continue sc’s down the other side of the chain skipping the last two chains.


R’s 2-6: Ch 2, turn (working in back loops only) insert hook into 3rd chain from hook, sc until you reach the marked stitch, then 3sc in the marked stitch (marking the middle stitch of this 3sc group), sc’s down the other side of the chain skipping the last two chains.

 

R7: Ch1, turn (working in back loops only) sl st in each st to the marked stitch Bind off, weave in yarn tail. Should be three points on each side of the center point and all six markers will have been used. Weave in end yarn tail. Use the start yarn tail to sew cape to body beginning at the point and down about 1/2”, this keeps it from twisting around.

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©2008 Judy Sakaguchi

You can use this information to create your own copyrighted amigurumi creations but please do not sell, give away or use for teaching a class copies of this instruction.